This leg of the journey started with a rest day. Well, by rest day I mean a day to stay in the same place, explore and do some of my washing and walking about 10 miles in the process. I stayed for two nights in Carcassonne and it is definitely what I would call a one day town. Really interesting place to stay but I'm not sure I would have much to do on a second day. The main attraction is the ancient citadel, a huge castle type structure on a hill across the river Aude from the modern day city of Carcassonne. The place is steeped in history and you don't have to pay for all of the various tours on offer to get it. There are plenty of notice boards and a lot of information on the internet and going there knowing a little bit about it makes it all the more interesting. Inside the citadel there are also a load of restaurants, cafes and shops - I get why these sometimes gimmicky places might offend people going there for the history, but I think they were actually quite nicely placed alongside the 'real' historical parts.
After Carcassonne the world started getting more Mediterraneany. Yes, that is now a word. The rocks have changed colour, there are lots more vineyards, there are many different species of tree and cactus starting to appear and the buildings are noticeably different in shape and colour. I love seeing this change and I hope to keep paying attention to this as I make my way around France. The weather is exactly what I would expect for the start of March; one day I'm wearing shorts and T-shirt and the next I am wearing three layers to stay warm. I am still enjoying walking the canal, even though I have done over 100 miles of it so far - it is a great way to start this adventure as it is incredibly easy to navigate and also the walking is simple so is gently building up my body to get used to doing it day after day.
The Idiocies of Mark
Thank you again to the eminent googler that is my Mum. She not only found the perfect place for a photo opportunity in the town of Capendu where I was staying, but she also managed to find the next situation for me to feel like a complete idiot - publicly as well, which just makes it that much more fun.
I came to Capendu after having done a healthy 20 miles walking but with a little time to kill. I was looking and feeling rather windswept and so thought a hot chocolate might be the perfect thing for me. France has the frustrating habit however of closing during afternoons but I was glad to see this little place open. I looked inside and it was pretty empty, walked in and asked a young lad for a table for one. I had no idea he didn't work there as he had greeted me like a waiter a few moments earlier. He then even pointed me into the next room. I walked in to find a large crowd just starting to leave. They gave me some strange looks but they were all wearing suits and dresses and I was wearing my walking gear so I thought that understandable. Then I noticed a few of them crying. Then I noticed a lot of flowers. Then I noticed an actual waiter giving me eyes that were saying, 'Who the hell are you and what are you doing here?' Yup - I had just unsuccessfully gatecrashed a funeral! The worst part was that, when I asked and was told the restaurant was now closed for the afternoon, I got caught up in all the hugging, crying people as they were leaving and it took about three or four awkward minutes (during which two different people asked me who I was) to leave the place!
I'm just going to defend myself a little here as, when I checked afterwards, the sign did say it was open and there were no notices about any funerals going on. I certainly felt like an idiot though...
Two towns of particular note are Marseillette and, my current placement, Homps. Both of these are beautiful places that I would love to come back to in the summer. There are so many shops and stalls that are currently closed and I am convinced that they would both be incredible with the summer bustle going on. Having said that, I really am a fan of the charm and architecture of both, even though there is not currently much going on. Just walking along the canal in this area is lovely though. There are so many beautiful towns around and the canal runs through a big valley with the foothills of the Pyrenees to the South and the hills and mountains of the Monts du Minervois to the North. I love the clash of townscapes with their hilltop churches up against the backdrop of mountains that are still topped in snow. I also love imagining the canal being built. How? Even with modern machinery this would be an epic undertaking. I am really enjoying (geek alert) looking at the bridges and aqueducts and admiring the craftsmanship and labour that went into building these. Incredible! I just wish I had a better camera to capture it all with!
Total distance covered in the seven days = 129.9 miles (couldn't be bothered to do the extra .1 mile to make that look better!)
Recommendation:
If you are ever lucky enough to be in Homps then I suggest renting La Maison du Canal - Homps (www.lamaisonducanalmidi.com). It is the perfect place to relax, close enough to all of the shops and restaurants and right next to the canal yet, inside, it is quiet and cosy. It is well equipped and super comfortable and Robyn, the lady who runs it, is really helpful and friendly.
On a random note (my speciality), Robyn is from Australia originally and one of the first things I thought when I found this out is that Bonjour (good day) is exactly the same as G'day. However, I have tried and failed to say bonjour in an Australian accent and Robyn's french is far too good for me to notice that! I'll keep practising.