The end of my experience of the GR51 was a little bit disappointing, not so much due to the trails but due to the weather. I couldn’t believe that, after having several days where temperatures were up around 27 degrees, I didn’t get to finish the route due to snow. Around Monaco! Well, in the mountains behind Monaco at least. I tried walking up the hills but ran into snow. I walked around hills lower down and closer to the coast but several of the paths were closed due to subsidence. I looked for other routes but this area, several towns and villages right by the sea, really isn’t designed for hiking and the steep cliffs make it difficult to create footpaths anyway. After about 13 miles I decided that I really wanted to get to see some of Monaco at least so I hopped on a train for the last little section and spent a few hours walking around Monaco.
I got lucky with my timing as I arrived a few days before the E-Prix which was only a fortnight before the main event, the Grand Prix. This meant that I got to see the streets with all of the barriers up, they were laying down chicanes, the grandstands were up and there was just a buzz of excitement and preparation about the place. It really surprised me just how open it all was as well; tourists were allowed to walk most of the track and even wander around the harbour and the hospitality areas. It gave me even more appreciation for just how crazy you have to be to be a racing driver as I felt walking pace was about right for some of those corners.
Aside from the racing parts I quite liked wondering around the different streets though it was weird seeing so much wealth about the place after having spent so much time in the wild or in small villages and towns. I was also pleasantly surprised by some of the many little public garden areas there are, many of which are really well designed and maintained. I thought it would all be more restrictive in Monaco but it was actually nice and open and felt more welcoming than I thought it would. It is however, not cheap, so after looking around I caught a train back to Grasse for the start of the GR4 trail, the next major part of my trip.
In summary:
I am a little late on writing this so have had a bit of time to think back on the GR51 and whether or not I would recommend it to someone who is looking to go hiking in France. The honest answer is, I don’t know. If I had to score it I would give it 3/5. In its favour, it goes through some incredible places: the Calanques, with their beautiful coastal views and challenging trails; Le Castellet and Le Revest-Les Eaux, two beautiful small towns with an abundance of charm, character and history; the large wild areas such as the Foret D’Esteral and the Foret de Morieres-Montrieux with some stunning mountains and rugged landscapes; and then the area where the Alps slope down towards the sea around Monaco and Nice, with their winding trails and incredible views both inland and out to sea. Even as I write all of this I wonder why I am not giving this route 5/5.
The reason is that the whole area just doesn’t feel that geared up towards walking. Many of the people in places that I stayed had never heard of the trail before. There were hardly any campsites along the way and, the few that were there, seemed to be more the theme-park holiday campsites with arcades and slides everywhere - and they often only accepted bookings for a week or more. And most importantly for me was the lack of hikers. In the highlight reel places there were loads, in the other bits it was deserted. It is still not the walking season in France but I was shocked that I didn’t meet anyone else doing the whole of the GR51. And from the size of the paths and the way that some parts are slightly overgrown and not brilliantly maintained I just don’t think it is one of the major routes. Which is a shame as, if you have been reading the blogs and seeing some of the pictures, there are stunning parts all the way along the route.
In conclusion, if you have someone to walk with and can afford to stay in b&bs and hotels then do this walk. If you have a car and want to find some brilliant sections for day walks then look at where this route goes, read my blog (of course) and pick a few of your favourite bits. If you are after the atmosphere and camaraderie that comes with walking a major route, which is really what this particular trip is all about for me, it might be best to look elsewhere. If the next leg of my journey can be filled with as many great views as I had along the GR51 then I will be a very lucky soul indeed and hopefully, due to the season and the fact that the GR4 has more of a reputation amongst hikers, there will be a few more people to meet along the way.
